tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-78121641512333632382024-03-13T19:27:53.504-07:00PetiquetteA veterinary perspective on pet etiquette - helping your pet be a respectable member of society :)Dr. Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08040619940043881883noreply@blogger.comBlogger13125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7812164151233363238.post-21310184183014853282013-06-14T11:20:00.002-07:002013-06-14T11:20:46.445-07:00Collars....Choose WiselyLast week there was a very sad occurrence at a popular Philly dog park - two dogs were playing when one dog's mouth got caught on the other's collar. The dogs panicked and the end result was that the collar suffocated it's wearer until he died. This is such a terrible story, and so sadly preventable. But the reality is that many people don't realize that their collar can make such a huge difference.<br />
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Those in the dog biz (especially doggy day cares, where off-leash play is a big part of their day) see jaws caught on collars as a somewhat regular occurrence, and they have rules that only allow easily removed collars such as velcro <a href="http://store.petsafe.net/playsafe-collar?utm_campaign=premier_redirect&cid=5&pid=58" target="_blank">play-safe collar</a> or <a href="http://www.breakawaycollar.com/" target="_blank">break-away collars</a> for life-saving purposes. Some dog folk prefer that dogs 'play naked' to completely prevent the risk of being caught up, but that should be decided based on the dog in question.<br />
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<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Martingale_(collar)" target="_blank">Martingale collars</a> have become a very popular collar, although they originated for long-necked greyhounds and other sighthounds; they are a kinder variety of 'choke' collar and they need to be slid over the head to be removed. If a dog's jaw is caught under it there is no way to remove the collar aside from cutting it, and sharp implements are not always at hand.<br />
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Metal choke collars would also be very difficult to remove in this situation, as they are slipped off and on over the dog's head. These collars are often used incorrectly anyway, where they are always in 'choke' mode instead of loose when not engaged. I feel that these collars should only be used in a training setting, and by someone who knows how to use them.<br />
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Prong or Pinch collars are a training collar that will pinch the skin around the neck when pulled tightly. They are also typically used as slip over the head types, and although you can theoretically separate the collar at any of the joints it would be close to impossible with another dog's jaw pulling it taught. Many people have issues with these collars in general, as they can be considered cruel. I will not get into that discussion today, as any tool that is used properly may have it's uses; proper use is just not as common as I would like.<br />
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Buckle collars may not be removable in time to prevent this type of incident, and even snap collars might not be that helpful if the release is in the dog's mouth or unreachable during an incident.<br />
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There are so many nice collars out there - <a href="http://www.facebook.com/WeSew4You?fref=ts" target="_blank">fun designs</a>, fancy bling, tooled leather, personalized and what have you. And there is no reason that your dog can't have all of these in their wardrobe, to be used on walks (a sturdy, well-fitting collar is most appropriate for walks anyway). But when your dog is engaged in off-leash play, or in a crate, or even in your back yard, go with the safer option of a quick-release collar or none at all.Dr. Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08040619940043881883noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7812164151233363238.post-34181623319498560612013-05-24T13:24:00.001-07:002013-05-24T13:24:58.174-07:00Cat's Who Need Crate Rest - Really?!?I am a vet. I make recommendations alllll the time that I realize are being ignored. Either completely ignored or partially ignored, but I continue to make these recommendations. Why? Because it's the right thing to do. And because a lot of the time my recommendations can make the difference between a positive outcome or a lot of frustration.<br />
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One example is crate rest. The concept of the crate with dog people is pretty easy to get across. Many dogs had crates when they were puppies or first adopted, and often they are a continued presence in the home into adulthood. Dogs often *like* their crates, and seek them as a safe haven or stress-free zone. So if I recommend that you crate rest your dog, both you and your dog kind of understand the concept. You may not like it, but you get it.<br />
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Cats who need crate rest...that is a much more difficult concept. Cats don't appreciate being confined, or being told what to do in any capacity, really. Plus they go to the bathroom in a box, on their own schedule, so that box needs to live with them in the crate and get cleaned A LOT. And while cats typically sleep 22 out of 24 hours in the day, for some reason it tugs on our heartstrings to see them sleeping in a crate all day. Finally, people just don't understand putting a cat in a crate - it's a foreign and weird idea. Because of these reasons, and others, I will sometimes suggest a bathroom or laundry room - somewhere small and confined but not a true crate. And sometimes it works! The problem with this is that it's not strict rest. If a cat can jump onto an object (toilet, sink, washer/dryer, etc) they will; and if they can't jump onto said item because of an injury, they may still make the attempt, often with disastrous results. And when the cat is not getting better and I have to insist on the crate we've already delayed the healing process and frustrated everyone. The short of it? If your vet tells you to crate your cat, listen. <br />
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Signed,<br />
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The owner of a cat who needs to live in a crate for the at least 8 weeks, and the wife of a man who asks daily if she can come out yet... (At least Bina has sympathetic Trouble to keep her company!)<br />
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<br />Dr. Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08040619940043881883noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7812164151233363238.post-10191432169000695262013-05-24T13:19:00.001-07:002013-05-24T13:19:25.409-07:00Regenerative Stem Cell Therapy<br />
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Let's start at the beginning - we are not talking about embryonic stem cells. No cord blood is involved in this process. We get these stem cells from FAT, and the patient's own fat at that (see, you knew that muffin top had a purpose). So now that *that* is out of the way...</div>
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Stem cells are starter cells - they can differentiate into the cells that are needed, such as bone, tendon or ligament; they also act as a beacon for other healing cells to hone in on, bringing them to the areas of the body that need to be repaired. </div>
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Stem cell therapy is an up and coming modality in veterinary medicine, and it is showing some pretty impressive results. The gist of it is we harvest fat from your pet, process it until all we have left are the stem cells from the fat, and then reintroduce those cells into the areas that need it most. It is most commonly used for osteoarthritis patients (creaky old joints) and other orthopaedic injuries (cruciate tears, elbow dysplasia, hip dysplasia), although there is progress in other areas of regenerative medicine as well.</div>
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Why would you choose stem cell therapy over traditional management? Well, traditional management for osteoarthritis includes many things, but those that tend to be the most problematic are NSAIDs (non-steroidal anti-inflammatories like Rimadyl, Deramaxx, Metacam, etc). Many pets use these medications safely and long term, but they can cause GI upset, can affect the liver, and require blood work to monitor their use. While stem cell therapy doesn't always allow a pet to completely discontinue these medications, it can help to reduce their dependency on them. </div>
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Why would you choose stem cell therapy instead of surgical correction? Depending on the surgery you're talking about, stem cell therapy is more affordable (total hip replacements can get up to $10k or more), is generally less invasive, and tends to have a quicker turn around time. Also, if your pet has multiple joints that are affected (both hips, both hips and a knee, a knee and an elbow) recovering from a surgery that incapacitates an entire limb may cause worse damage to the other limbs.</div>
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This sounds a bit like a commercial for stem cell therapy, doesn't it? Sorry about that, it's not my intention. Stem cell isn't for everyone, and it doesn't have a 100% guarantee (neither does surgery, or NSAIDs, or physical therapy - there are no 100% guarantees), but it is SO exciting to have another option to treat these pets and relieve their discomfort. And the research and medicine behind it is so freaking COOL - turning fat into ligament??? Awesome. </div>
Dr. Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08040619940043881883noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7812164151233363238.post-58071713671326063952013-04-06T15:55:00.001-07:002013-04-08T05:49:02.145-07:00Lentil the Inspirational Frenchie PuppyIf you don't already know who Lentil is, go look for him now. Here you go - he has a Facebook page called '<a href="http://www.facebook.com/MyNameIsLentil?fref=ts" target="_blank">My Name is Lenti</a>l' and he is a ridiculously cute and personable French Bulldog puppy.<br />
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Now that you're acquainted with his cuteness, let's talk about his reality. Lentil is the only surviving puppy from a litter that were all born with cleft palates and subsequently turned over to the <a href="http://www.frenchbulldogrescue.org/" target="_blank">French Bulldog Rescue Network</a>. A cleft palate is a birth defect of the oral cavity, an opening in the roof of the mouth which prevents the ability to suckle and predisposes them to aspiration pneumonia. The severity of Lentil's deformity is intense - his palate is completely separated, and the cleft extends to his nose (that's what gives him such a distinctive face). His prognosis was guarded when Foster Mom Lindsay accepted responsibility for him at a few days old; he was not expected to live past his first week.<br />
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That was over 2 months ago, and Lindsay's life has been turned upside down to defeat the odds for little Lentil. He requires tube feeding every 3 hours around the clock (stop and think about this - EVERY THREE HOURS), and is never left alone. And let's not even talk about all the press he's been getting lately - he's internationally famous! She does all of this for him, in between operating her own business (<a href="http://www.facebook.com/chicpetiquephilly" target="_blank">Chic Petique</a>, in Northern Liberties), her own dog rescue (<a href="http://streettails.org/" target="_blank">Street Tails Animal Rescue/STAR</a>), and being on the board for the <a href="http://www.acctphilly.org/" target="_blank">Animal Care and Control Team of Philadelphia</a> (ACCT). Any one of these activities is a large time commitment, and she manages to do them all, and do them well. I personally can't fathom it, and give her major kudos for maintaining sanity through it all.<br />
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Lentil is more than just a cute and fuzzy cuddle bug - he is also an inspiration. Cleft palates and cleft lips are among the most common birth defect that we see in human babies. Since Lentil has become an internet sensation he has been able to reach into the lives of thousands, and is a friend to children that are in the same boat. He is beating the odds, he is adorable and easy to love, and he shows these kids that it's okay to be a little different. This means so much to the children, as well as to the families who love them.<br />
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Babies with orofacial clefts go through surgery to have them corrected, and, as they grow, they often need additional surgeries, dental work, and speech therapy. In a few short weeks we will all be able to follow Lentil through this process, as he gets started with the first of likely many surgeries by Dr. John Lewis at the Matthew J. Ryan Veterinary Hospital of the University of Pennsylvania. Lentil brings these surgeries into the public eye, and will show these kids that they are not alone in what they are going through. He is Lentil, the inspirational Frenchie puppy...and he eats through a tube.<br />
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<br />Dr. Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08040619940043881883noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7812164151233363238.post-21253193367766918592013-01-18T11:30:00.000-08:002013-01-18T11:30:36.371-08:00A spay is a spay is a spay, right? Wrong.<br />
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Spaying and neutering your pets has been recommended for years...just ask Bob Barker. But where and how you go about having this procedure performed *does* make a difference. </div>
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Shelter and low cost spay/neuter clinics exist for a reason - we have overpopulation of stray animals, and preventing reproduction goes a long way to reducing those numbers. Most shelters will not even adopt out their animals without first having these surgeries. And shelter and low cost surgery is a bit how you would imagine it - the pets are anesthetized (often with only injectable medications), surgery is performed and they're sent on their way. Often 50 or more patients are having surgery done that day, so things move along at a good clip. What these vets and organizations are doing cannot be undersold - they are providing a great service for those who need them, and I really don't want to disparage them at all. But they are working with some serious volume, limited resources and limited staff. So let's look at the other side of the coin for a minute.</div>
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At a high quality veterinary practice there are a few more steps. Your pet receives their examination and has pre-operative blood work run to look for any reason that anesthesia would be inadvisable. Then an intravenous catheter is placed to provide immediate venous access in case of emergency, as well as to provide intravenous fluids for the losses sustained during surgery. Pre-medications that include pain management are given, as well as a separate induction agent to make your pet sleepy enough to be intubated. Intubation allows for use of inhalent gas anesthesia without risk to the veterinary staff, and allows for better control of how much inhalent is actually being delivered to your pet. During surgery your pet is monitored by a trained individual whose job is dedicated to monitoring your pet's ECG and blood pressure, their level of anesthesia and comfort. After surgery, that same individual stays with your pet until they are awake enough to have the endotracheal tube removed safely. Heat support is provided during and after surgery. Your pet receives additional pain medication while in the hospital, as well as some to go home. An elizabethan collar (cone) is also sent home to prevent self-trauma to the surgery site.</div>
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There are veterinary hospitals that are somewhere in between these two. They may not place a catheter in every patient, or they may not intubate. ECG and blood pressure monitoring might be optional, pre-operative blood work may not be done. There are levels and levels of what is going to happen when you drop your pet off for their procedure. And the cost differences that are out there will reflect those levels. I don't want to tell anyone that can't afford to spay or neuter their pet at the high end of this spectrum that they shouldn't do it - that is why low cost options exist, and I'd much rather have the surgery done, period, as it significantly decreases certain health risks later in life. But I do want people to understand the fundamental differences in what these surgeries entail, to ask the right questions to compare them, and to be aware that a spay is NOT just a spay.</div>
Dr. Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08040619940043881883noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7812164151233363238.post-29528038298101415392012-12-21T17:38:00.000-08:002012-12-21T17:38:13.394-08:00Pet-pocalypseIf you're reading this, that means that December 21st, 2012 has come and gone and we are all still here. Which is good. But I would like to chat a bit about actual emergency contingency plans and your pets.<br />
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Most human evacuation sites will not take pets, although I'm hopeful that will not always be the case (props to NJ with the recent Sandy landing, where many shelters were announced as pet-friendly). So in the case of evacuation it is important to have some idea of what you might do with your pets. I don't have all the answers for this, as every situation is different, but I encourage you to have a sketched out plan in mind. Animal shelters have been overrun after each natural disaster, either by pets who were lost or abandoned, and then flooded with calls looking for those lost pets as well. While there are sometimes happy endings to these sad stories, a plan to keep your pets with you or in a situation where they can be returned to you safely is a better bet.<br />
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Not all emergencies are to the extreme of Katrina or Sandy. What about in case of fire? Do you have a sticker on your window letting fire fighters know that they should be looking for your pets? You can purchase these stickers from online venues such as Amazon.com, and some rescue organizations and pet stores will have them available for free. <br />
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Many people live alone with their pets, and need to consider what will happen with them if they were to become injured or unable to care for them. I realize that this is a bit depressing, but talking to friends and family about who would be able to help in these situations ahead of time can alleviate a lot of stress and confusion. I find that clients who have willingly accepted and prepared for bringing a new pet into their homes are much happier than those who have 'inherited' a pet that they didn't want. Along those same preventative, yet somewhat morbid, lines, specific requests or directions regarding pets should be included in a Last Will and Testament as well. <br />
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Contingency plans are important, for yourselves as well as your pets. But since we've made it past the Mayans' prediction, let's take a minute to squeeze our fuzzy friends. And tomorrow, we plan.Dr. Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08040619940043881883noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7812164151233363238.post-22056414899849447852012-12-07T11:49:00.000-08:002012-12-07T11:49:03.683-08:00Runs with DogsLike Dances with Wolves. Get it? sigh.<br />
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So I'm a runner. Not a fast-moving racing fiend, but a runner nonetheless. And I see a lot of runners while I'm out there plodding along, some of which are running with their dogs. Which is awesome for the dogs, who need their exercise in order to sleep rather than destroy the couch, and for the humans, who have bonding time as well as fitness time. But there are things to consider when running with a dog...<br />
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Leashes. In the city, dogs should always been on leash. When you're running with a dog, you should have a good hold on the leash, and keep it short. Dogs like to clothesline people, telephone poles, parking meters, etc when you're least expecting it. And NEVER EVER EVER use a retractable leash when running. There's a previous blog post about those wretched creations, but just don't.<br />
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Running path. In an ideal world, you would only run with your dog on blissful tree-lined paths with clearly marked lanes for each direction...these do not exist in most of the world, so you'll need to think about the real life path-of-least-resistance instead. If you're bringing your dog with you, avoid sidewalks with heavy foot traffic, tons of traffic lights and cars making right turns on red. These obstacles are frustrating for a lone runner, but can be terrifying or deadly for a dog, even if they're only a foot away from you. It sounds like common sense, and it is, but many of us don't think about it until we're tangled up in a tour group, have a cigarette flicked at us or a Starbucks spilled onto our dog. (Ask me about the woman who just dumped her full coffee, cup and all, 2 feet in front of me. Didn't even look around first. AND there was a trash can 100 feet ahead of her!)<br />
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Age of dog. This may be unexpected, but it is actually very important to keep your young dogs off the streets and running paths. They can chase a ball in the park until the cows come home, but the constant pounding from concrete running does a number on open growth plates. Wait until your dog is about a year and a half before you do much more than a mile of straight running, and even then you need to work them up to longer distances gradually to avoid injury. Older dogs are also a consideration - osteoarthritis is one of the most common diseases we see in dogs as they age. If you notice lameness after a run that used to be 'no problem', you may need to reduce your mileage, or even slow down to walks only.<br />
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Breed of dog. If you want a running partner, be aware of what you can expect from your dog. An English Bulldog or a Pug are not likely to match you mile for mile. Any brachycephalic (short-nosed) breed is high risk for exercise, as they don't exchange oxygen as easily and can overheat quickly. If you are not a runner and you have a high energy breed like a Weimaraner or a Pit Bull, you might want to get yourself fitted for some running shoes! Keeping a high energy breed on a low energy schedule can lead to destructive behaviors, and is one of the reasons our shelters and rescues are always so full. <br />
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Awareness. You are running with another being who does not share your mind. They may be the best and most attentive dog in the world, but they can make the untimely decision to go left when you need to go right. Being aware of what your dog is doing, what fellow pedestrians are doing, and what cars/bikes are doing is a major undertaking, and it is important for everyone's safety. Just remember, running with a dog ain't no walk in the park!Dr. Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08040619940043881883noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7812164151233363238.post-70966749548324038412012-11-30T11:58:00.001-08:002012-11-30T12:16:52.266-08:00Tie A Yellow Ribbon......around your dog's leash? <br />
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That is what a movement out of Sweden is encouraging people to do, for their dogs who need space. I just learned about this, and I think it is a ridiculously AWESOME idea! <br />
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There are many reasons why a dog who is out for a walk should not be approached. The first to come to mind are that the dog is reactive, fearful, or aggressive. Wouldn't you be happy to know that you should give those pups a wide berth? There are other reasons as well - what about a contagious disease? Those dogs need to get their exercise too, but don't you want to skip that greeting? Often people are working on training their dogs, and having another dog or person come up to them can be very distracting - a yellow ribbon would allow for training to continue uninterrupted, so that we can soon have another model dog citizen in the world.<br />
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I am constantly telling clients that it is much easier to train your dog than to train the people your dog will meet. Yellow means caution, and if we can train the general public to use caution when we put a yellow ribbon or bandana on a dogs leash? Just. Freaking. Brilliant.<br />
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The (limited) website is: <a href="http://www.gulahund.se/default_en.asp">http://www.gulahund.se/default_en.asp</a> and they have a facebook page as well: <a href="http://www.facebook.com/pages/Yellowdog-Some-dogs-need-space/401739849882648">http://www.facebook.com/pages/Yellowdog-Some-dogs-need-space/401739849882648</a> . Friend them, tell a friend, tell all 400+ of your facebook friends, tweet about it, retweet it...you get the idea!Dr. Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08040619940043881883noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7812164151233363238.post-73354446749384102122012-11-02T11:05:00.000-07:002012-11-02T11:05:26.830-07:00Cat Litter ConundrumI want to start out by saying something very unfortunate, but in my opinion, very true: there is no perfect cat litter on the market. There are various types of litter out there, which is one thing I want to cover in this post, but the reality is you need to pick and choose your battles. It won't be too hard to see which battle I'm fighting...<br />
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The most common type of litters out there are clay-based. They're cheap, they clump, and cats tend to like them. They are also VERY environmentally unfriendly, as the main ingredient that causes clumping, sodium bentonite, is STRIP-MINED from as deep as 50+ feet into the ground. This material does not compost and it does not break down - this stuff is in our landfills for the long haul. There is also concern that sodium bentonite can be harmful for the cats - they inhale it, and it is on their paws and fur after use, which is then ingested via grooming. There are no proven studies that show it is harmful, but it has also only been on the market for ~20 years - a relatively short time. My guess is that we will start to see studies come out against the use of this material in the future.<br />
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Alternative options are not perfect, as I mentioned, but they are better for the environment, which means they are better for me. There are many, but I will just touch on the most common and readily available. <br />
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World's Best Cat Litter is made from corn husks. As far as usability and availability, it is very similar to clay. It clumps in a very similar manner, without using sodium bentonite. It's price point is higher than clay litters, but it tends to last for a decent amount of time with regular scooping. The negatives: the corn is likely genetically modified corn, and has been exposed to pesticides and herbicides. It is clearly not organic, and there is no research regarding what kind of remnants of that kind of treatment is still present in the litter. Again, no research does not mean no harm. This is the most similar litter to clay, and cats tend to like it, but it may pose a health risk. Odor control is reasonable, not outstanding.<br />
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Feline Pine is made from, shockingly, pine trees. The wood is a natural source, clearly better than clay, but there are concerns regarding pine resin and oils that could remain in the litter and potentially be harmful for cats. Again, no research on this, so no definitive answers. It is pelleted, which does not always please the cats, and is probably my biggest issue with it. When the pellets become wet, they turn into sawdust which can be difficult to scoop out. Odor control is quite good, as long as you like pine trees.<br />
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Yesterday's News is made from recycled newspaper. I like the idea, and I would love to support this whole heartedly, but unfortunately it is pelleted as well. The pellets become damp mush when wet, and often you end up dumping the whole box rather than successfully scooping out the waste material. If you are a diligent daily scooper it is possible to use this with success, as long as your cat approves of pellets. As a multi-cat household I found it to be very difficult to stay on top of cleaning without wasting. Odor control is minimal, but if you're scooping often it's less of an issue.<br />
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SWheat Scoop is a wheat based litter. It clumps pretty well using wheat's natural properties when wet, and does not have any added chemicals or fragrances. I could not find information on whether then wheat has been chemically treated with pesticides, so that concern still exists. There are reports of insect larvae being an issue with this type of litter (so maybe pesticides aren't an issue), and assumably this would be a problem with World's Best as well, given the crop nature of the litter base. Odor control is decent. <br />
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There are other varieties of litter out there, as I've mentioned. There is more information regarding various litters here: http://www.thelighthouseonline.com/articles/natural.html, and an article discussing clay litter here: http://cats.about.com/cs/litterbox/a/clumpingclay.htm. There is also the whole internet, which has opinions too :).<br />
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Before signing off on litter speak, I want to briefly touch on flushing and composting. Cat feces should NOT be flushed into the water supply. Many cats are carriers for <i>Toxoplasma gondii</i>, a parasite that can cause disease in mammals, and has been linked to the decline of sea otters on the west coast. While we don't have a complete understanding of what damage this parasite can cause, it's better to play things safe. Please keep your cat poop out of the toilets! As for composting, animal feces can be composted, but NOT into compost used on any edible plants. Composted animal feces can be beneficial for your decorative flower beds and your shrubs, but keep it away from your vegetable gardens and fruit-bearing trees!<br />
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I hope that at the very least this post encourages you to think about your litter. And if anyone has ideas for a truly perfect, eco-friendly, cat-friendly, affordable litter that we can produce and retire on, let me know!Dr. Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08040619940043881883noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7812164151233363238.post-34271691602319598022012-09-30T11:46:00.003-07:002012-09-30T11:46:49.858-07:00Dangerous Dog Laws<br />
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">This is a difficult topic for me, as for many dog lovers and owners, as we do not always accept that there are dogs that should be labeled ‘dangerous’. I fully believe that naming a dangerous dog should on an individual basis, and that breed-specific legislation, or ‘breedism’ is wrong wrong wrong. I see different breeds of dogs all day long, and I know how to read the individual body language that keeps me from being bitten multiple times a day. And I have owned a dog that is one of the most recognized biters in veterinary medicine - a chihuahua. (I have also owned a pit bull, who was terrified of said chihuahua). But I don’t want this post to get into breedism, because that is not what I’m addressing at this time. I would like to talk about the laws that exist to help humans, in the case of a dangerous dog.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">First, many people don’t really think about dangerous dog laws as existing, or at least as existing as relates to their every day life. They think of some terrible situation that they see on the news, generally of catastrophic proportion. And they are right - those instances are absolutely cases where these laws are important. But it is also important to use these laws to protect the every day situation. Many of my clients tell me of neighborhood dogs or dog park dogs that ‘everyone knows’ they need to avoid. But no one has reported this dog. And because there is no report, each incident of aggression goes un-noted in the public record, and thus there is no action that can be taken with repeat occurrences. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">Let me back up a second. Dogs play; they roughhouse, they growl and grab skin with their teeth as a normal occurrence during interaction. That is not what I’m talk about. I’m talking about the dog that causes a fight, and when the fight is broken up it turns on the humans breaking up the fight. I’m talking about the unprovoked attacks through a storm door when you are walking your dog down the street. I’m talking about the dog that comes out of nowhere and knocks down a skateboarder or a biker.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">In most of these situations, there is a human involved in the mix. (While a true stray dog is rare, if no owner can be identified and they are causing a problem, Animal Control should already be brought in to address them.) So who is responsible, in the majority of cases of repeat incidents of dog bites? The owner of the dog. Which is where the dangerous dog laws come in to play - the owner receives a citation or warning, which can then lead to a fine, which can eventually lead to the dog being taken away from the owner. A legal, documented trail can lead to the prevention of these dogs from causing harm to other dogs, to people, and to themselves.</span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">I have many clients that own dogs who are considered ‘dog aggressive’, ‘fear aggressive’, ‘approach slowly’, etc. And there are steps that can be taken to address all of these categories and more - there are behaviorists and trainers, there are over the counter treatments for anxiety as well as prescription medications. But the biggest thing that my clients who own these dogs have in their favor? Awareness. They don’t bring their ‘dog aggressive’ dog to the park, or if they do it’s at a low traffic time and they are aware of any other dog that approaches. Owners of ‘fear aggressive’ dogs don’t take them for a walk when school is letting out (kids can be *terrifying*!), and they know that these dogs will be more on edge on garbage day. And they don’t leave the front door open, with just a screen between their dog and the neighborhood. These owners are not the people that dangerous dog laws are targeting, because these owners are aware of their dog, working with their dog, and they keep them away from situations that would get them into trouble. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">So, what do we do when a one-sided dog fight occurs? Or a person is bitten or attacked by a dog? Call 911. I know it may sound extreme, but the police are the first line of the record keeping process. You *have* to file a police report. If it is a first time offense, it is possible that the only thing that will happen is that the report will be filed. But if it is a known dangerous dog, the fines and citations will begin, and hopefully the owner of the dog will take measures to prevent further incidents from happening. Even if you do not have a person or address attached to the dog, file the report. And, while I hate to say this, not every police officer believes that this is their responsibility; they may brush you off, or say there really isn’t anything they can do, or to call Animal Control. They are wrong, and you should insist on having the police report filed. </span></div>
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<span style="letter-spacing: 0.0px;">I realize that the last thing anyone wants to do after going through a traumatic experience, either for their dog or for themselves, is to sit around to wait for a cop and then fill out paperwork. But it is so important to have documentation, so that repeat offenses will stop happening. What you or your dog are going through at that moment could have happened a dozen times before - if everyone had reported it, you might not be in that situation, and you have the chance to help prevent it from happening again.</span></div>
Dr. Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08040619940043881883noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7812164151233363238.post-43834741344937474902012-09-07T14:23:00.000-07:002012-09-07T14:23:06.464-07:00Natural Disasters: Making a Bad Situation WorseHurricane Isaac just made himself felt in the Gulf region, another hit to an area that has already sustained so much weather-related tragedy. I want to tell you a story of an unfortunate and not atypical situation, that just happened with Isaac...<br />
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My husband's friend Jessie lives in New Orleans, and during Isaac she rescued two sweet little female pitties wandering the streets. It turns out that they had been left outside in a medium sized crate to ride out the storm, and broke out of the crate (either from complete panic or with some help from the brutal winds is unknown). When she found the home and suggested returning the dogs, she was told that they would be put back in the crate, so she decided to foster them and try to re-home them. After eating a hearty meal, they slept for 12 hours straight! <br />
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While that is heartbreaking in and of itself, what happened after the initial rescue was also frustrating. Jessie has her own dog, and these two new girls (named Thelma and Louise, as the crate woman didn't even know their names) weren't used to being indoors or being with a new dog; there was no way that Jessie could keep them in her place for very long. So she started to look into rescue situations. She sent emails, made phone calls, tried to contact people through twitter and facebook, and received almost no response. Zeus' Place, a grooming and boarding facility that does a lot of rescue work, did try to help her and offer her advice. They were unable to take the dogs because their building had structural damage that needed repair before they could open again - they had already crammed all of their rescues into various foster situations even more crowded than Jessie's apartment! But even with dealing with all of their issues, they took the time to talk to her. <br />
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When organizations such as the Humane Society and SPCA were overwhelmed and unable to respond, a small-time rescue did. CPH is trying to organize donations of pet food, blankets, and cat carriers to send down to Zeus' Place, to say thank you for what they are doing and to help them rebuild. In the aftermath of a hurricane, with power outages and building damage, it's not a surprise that Jessie had a hard time finding help!<br />
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The HSUS and SPCA weren't able to respond because they're underfunded, understaffed and undersupplied. Donation, financial or otherwise, to any rescue or organization is a great way to make a difference for the many homeless pets that are taken in. While disasters such as Hurricane Isaac make things more immediate, every town has animal rescue organizations that are struggling to feed their wards. We have one employee who, in lieu of other gifts for her young nieces, buys them gift cards to pet stores - they go in together, the girls pick out toys and treats, and then they deliver them to an animal shelter. It's such a simple concept, but such an amazing thing to do, and to teach the next generation. I encourage everyone to take a second to think about donating. Thank you, from me and all the shelter fuzzballs waiting for a home.Dr. Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08040619940043881883noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7812164151233363238.post-28437810866940285622012-08-31T11:46:00.000-07:002012-08-31T11:46:32.630-07:00Retractable Leashes - The Unspoken MenaceAggressive title, right? Well, retractable leashes can be a real problem, especially for city dwelling dogs. I'm not saying you have to go and throw away your retractable leash, but I would encourage you to read on and decide whether you may not want to switch it out for a leather or nylon leash instead.<br />
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Retractable leashes have a thin cord that retracts into a plastic handle, which allows your dog to have up to 30 feet of distance between you and them. Even if it's only half that, 15 feet is a big deal when your dog suddenly comes face to face with another dog turning a corner. Or if he spots a squirrel across the street and makes a break for it. Or when she thinks she's able to run a head because she feels no resistance, and then chokes herself to an abrupt stop.<br />
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For dogs in the city, retractable leashes and distracted owners mean numerous incidents that are avoidable. I have personally treated a dog that was hit by a car while the owner was walking him on a retractable leash - the owner turned her head to look at something for a second, and when she turned back her dog was halfway across the street and she watched him get hit. It was very traumatic for everyone involved, and cemented my feelings about those types of leashes in a city environment. More commonly, though, blind corners and long leashes end up with dogs coming nose to nose with other dogs/bikes/joggers/skateboarders with no reaction time possible for the owners at the other end of that 15 feet.<br />
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The injuries associated with retractable leashes are multi-fold. As I've already mentioned, for your dog: dog fights, hit by cars, choking incidents, neck trauma and even blindness. For the human holding the leash: cuts, burns, drag incidents and, ridiculously commonly, digit amputation. That's right, amputation. That sharp little cord that so conveniently disappears into the plastic handle? Works just like a guillotine on fingers that are in the wrong place when your dog sees that tempting little squirrel.<br />
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I think the concept of the retractable leash is fine for certain situations, however. Hiking on trails or walking in big parks where there is room to run but no physical boundary? Perfect to let your dog have 30 feet of freedom without risking him taking off after a deer or another dog. You still have the risk or choking themselves, but with training they can learn the boundaries of the leash. But walking down 5th Street? No, thank you.<br />
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And, as a matter of etiquette, if you are aware that your dog is not good with other dogs or people or children PLEASE do not use a retractable leash. The amount of control you have over your dog is NOT good enough. And if your dog is not well trained (or even just squirrel motivated), the injury you may be avoiding is your own. Watch those fingers!<br />
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<br />Dr. Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08040619940043881883noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7812164151233363238.post-81300137468985667452012-08-24T12:11:00.000-07:002012-08-24T12:11:31.992-07:00The Real Poo About Dog PooWalking a dog in the city means picking up poo (for most of us upstanding citizens, anyway). But it's unlikely that we get every last fecal molecule with that baggie; and what about the pile that was left behind? What does all of this fecal material mean for *your* pup, who is walking through and sniffing at these microscopic remnants?<br />
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Unfortunately, it means that disease transmission is a real issue in city and other high traffic dog-walking environments. Many fecal parasites can survive in the environment and be infective for weeks to months. Whipworms can survive in soil for up to 7 YEARS! Parvovirus is a very serious and possibly fatal viral infection that is transmitted from fecal material, and can survive in soil for up to a year. Some of the parasites that our dogs can pick up, such as Giardia, can then be passed on to us - these are considered 'zoonotic'.<br />
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Does this mean that we should all keep our dogs on lockdown? Concrete all the green space we can find? Pour bleach on the ground in front of our dog's feet? Of course not! What fun would that be? It <i>does</i> mean that veterinary care in the city is of the utmost importance! <span style="font-size: 16px;">Keeping your furry friend vaccinated against Parvo (usually included in the Canine Distemper combination vaccine) is almost 100% effective when administered appropriately.</span><span style="font-size: 16px;"> </span><span style="font-size: 16px;">If you have a new puppy, it is important to be cautious until they are considered fully vaccinated at 16 weeks of age. There is a waxing/waning effect with protective antibodies from a puppy's mother vs. the vaccinations administered, so it is important to limit your puppy's exposure to the outside world until your vet gives you the okay.</span><span style="font-size: 16px;"> </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 16px;">The monthly Heartworm preventative that your vet recommends is also a monthly dewormer, so make sure to put that reminder in your phone each month! This will get rid of some intestinal parasites your dog can encounter. Those annual fecal samples your veterinary receptionists ask you to bring with you (ewww, right?) are very important to catch fecal parasites before they cause illness. It's not just a runny poo that needs to be checked out!</span><br />
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What all of this means is that you can still take your dog for a walk, to play in the park, or let them roam the streets of Philadelphia off-leash....wait, scratch that last one! <span style="font-size: 16px;">Since you are not going to keep your dog on lockdown, make sure that you're taking the necessary precautions to keeping the *real* yucky stuff out of their poo.</span>Dr. Mhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08040619940043881883noreply@blogger.com0